Canal de Bourgogne: Fleurey-sur-Ouche to Dijon

Place de la Libération, Dijon

Continuing on from Fleurey-sur-Ouche Wanderlust’s next stop was Dijon. Though we debated stopping in between it seemed that the pull of the biggest city on route was too much to ignore.

As we arrived in Dijon the first order of business was to find a mooring. Though technically Dijon has a port de plaisance, it is unmanaged and is filled with full-timers. For us this meant that there were no serviced moorings accessible. We could stay at the long quay across from the port, there was plenty of space there, but we’d have to rely on our finicky generator for electricity.

Wanderlust takes a lunch break in a lock on the way to Dijon. Her ropes are loose in case the water level changed over the lunch hour, which it did.

More limiting was the availability of freshwater. In the build contract, Wanderlust’s freshwater tank is listed as 2200 liters. In reality her water tank is significantly smaller, with a measured volume around 1850 liters. We figured that we’d need 500 liters in reserve to reliably get from Dijon to the next source of water in St. Jean de Losne. When water is readily available Wanderlust’s smaller than contracted tank is not a big deal. In cases like this, however, the smaller tank meant we would need to leave Dijon two or three days earlier than we would have preferred. As we arrived we expected to be only able to stay a few days.

Fortunately we found a way to get water. After a couple of days in Dijon we realized that the hotel barges moored on the other side of the port moved out with their next load of guests. When the hotel peniches left we found we could duck over and refill our water tank before the next set of barges arrived. This strategy let us extend our stay in Dijon.

The view from Tour Philippe Le Bon (Tower of Philippe the Good) in Dijon, France

The extra time in Dijon gave us the chance to try to arrange for repair work with the three yards ahead in St. Jean de Losne. Alas, it was August in France. Everyone was en vancances, as they say. Our scheduling attempts were unsuccessful. Finding a yard to make repairs to Wanderlust was proving to be very difficult.

With no motivation to proceed down the canal we stayed a total of 17 days in Dijon scooting over and back to the water tap when it became available. We might have moved on earlier if we had been able to arrange an appointment with the yards in Saint Jean. But in the absence of a work schedule there didn’t seem much reason to leave Dijon.

And there was one serious attraction that kept us in Dijon, the commune’s covered market. The marché couvert in Dijon is one of the finest that we have encountered in France. That is high praise as France has numerous good markets. It was hard to leave Dijon behind when there were so many stalls in the market filled with unimaginable varieties of food of the highest quality. Sensibly we would stay in Dijon until we tried every interesting food item in the market. Practically that wouldn’t work. It would take years to try it all. We had to move on, eventually.

Inside Dijon’s large market hall

Squash from nearby Auxonne

Oh yes, the cheese.

Log:

In traveling to Dijon from Fleurey Wanderlust covered 14 kilometers and passed through 13 locks. Her engine ran for 5.7 hours. As we entered Dijon we had a short wait to let the VNF fill an empty pound ahead of us!

To bring up a map of this segment click here.

Wanderlust at the quay in Dijon’s port

A quiet stretch of the Canal de Bourgogne

 

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3 thoughts on “Canal de Bourgogne: Fleurey-sur-Ouche to Dijon

  1. So did you end up at the unserviced quay? Seventeen days – truly a great market, but great to see that even in the summer peak you can have a suitable mooring to make that stay feasible.

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